Chef Naomi Andrade Smith Talks to Voracious

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Can you tell me a lit­tle more about the food you made at Villa Vic­to­ria? You were known for things like putting col­lard greens in bur­ri­tos. Well, first of all, bur­ri­tos are not any­thing you will find in Mex­ico. Mex­i­cans are dainty eaters, they don’t want to eat big, honkin’ things. Only Amer­i­cans want to do that. But peo­ple wanted bur­ri­tos, so I made them, and instead I put in black beans and col­lard greens, as a syn­cretism hon­or­ing my parents.

What was your favorite meal as a child? Albondi­gas, or meat­ball soup. The meat­balls have ground beef, gar­lic cloves, onion, and lit­tle mint, plus egg and rice. You bring water to a vio­lent bowl and put in the meat­balls, one by one. Mean­while, you make a sofrito of gar­lic, onion, green pep­per, and toma­toes, and let that cook down. You add it to the water when the meat­balls are done. In 15 min­utes you have an instant feast.

Within your study of Mex­i­can cui­sine, do you find you there’s a region that you have a par­tic­u­lar affin­ity for? The state of Ver­acruz is very easy to love. It is so var­ied: You’ve got low plains, high moun­tains, and the coast. There’s actu­ally a place in Ver­acruz — Per­ote — where they grow truf­fles. They grow truf­fles, hunt them out, and then they send them to Japan. If you take the bus from Mex­ico City to Ver­acruz, you’ll see all the dif­fer­ent lay­ers. You come down from the moun­tains and all of a sud­den you’re in a val­ley, like Switzer­land, with cows and mead­ows. Fur­ther down, you get into the steamy trop­i­cal area, where there’s cof­fee grow­ing and lots of fish and veg­eta­bles. It’s just beautiful.
Do you have a favorite ingre­di­ent? Well, right now I am heavy into coconut oil. Coconut milk, too. I’ve been cook­ing my rice in coconut milk. And the other day, at a store down by Ikea, I found a half-gallon of coconut oil for just $15. I’m also really in love with lard right now. I just ren­dered my own lard from Kurobuta pork and I am lov­ing that. My favorite meat right now is pork! I am com­ing around to it. I under­stand it now. It was always a mys­tery to me.
More of Angela Garbes’ talk with Naomi Andrade Smith at Vora­cious. Smith’s old Villa Vic­to­ria space is occu­pied now by Empire Espresso.

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